Felice a Testaccio

Felice has served cacio e pepe since 1936 and the ritual hasn't changed: your waiter finishes the pasta tableside, tossing it with pecorino and pepper in a theatrical flourish that's equal parts tradition and performance. The tonnarelli is the only correct order for your first visit. Beyond the signature dish, the menu is a greatest-hits of Roman cucina — amatriciana, abbacchio, trippa. The dining room is old-school white tablecloths and zero pretension. Testaccio regulars still treat it as their canteen, which tells you everything about the consistency. Book ahead — walk-ins rarely succeed at dinner.