Mercato di Testaccio

Testaccio's covered market moved into a sleek modern hall in 2012 but kept its soul intact. Over 100 stalls sell fresh produce, butchered meats, aged cheeses, and Roman street food to a crowd that's still overwhelmingly local. The food stalls inside serve some of the city's best trapizzini (triangular pizza pockets stuffed with braised oxtail or chicken cacciatore), supplì, and porchetta sandwiches — all for under six euros. Vendors greet regulars by name and will happily let you taste before buying. A numbered grid system helps navigation. Come hungry, leave slowly, and bring cash for the smaller stalls.