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Open for over half a century on a quiet Trastevere piazza, San Calisto is the anti-cocktail bar. The prices are defiantly cheap, the decor hasn't changed in decades, and the clientele is a Roman cross-section: artists, sanitation workers, students, elderly regulars, street musicians, and bewildered tourists who stumbled in. In summer, the piazza outside becomes the living room, with people spilling across plastic chairs. The chocolate ice cream in winter is locally famous. There is nothing curated about this place, which is precisely the point.
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